Xbox One Controller Traces, Diagram, Scan and Pinouts

The new XB1 controller is a CG (Common Ground) setup for all of the Buttons. The Triggers are also in a setup where they go Lo when pressed, but they are a bit more complex than the 10k Potentiometer style that its 360 predecessor sported, more detail on those later.

1537 BUTTON/POWER BOARD TOP

1537 BUTTON/POWER BOARD BOTTOM

1537 MCU BOARD TOP

1537 MCU BOARD BOTTOM

If any button is wished to be duplicated, it's just a matter of one side of the new button going to any Ground spot, then the other side going to the button line that you want to duplicate. The connectors J5 and J6 are the best place to solder up wires for all of the buttons, with the exceptions of B, LSC and RSC. The B button has a Via, as well as a solder pad at D14 directly beneath it that can be used. Then the LSC and RSC connections can be made right on the solder joints for them.

If a Trigger is wished to be duplicated, it will get done the same way, one side of the new button will go to Ground, the other side to the LT or RT line, but install a 10ohm Resistor on one side or the other of the new Tact switch so it's not a direct short to Ground when the Tact is pressed. There are no really great places to solder up wires for the LT and RT lines, the only options being a Via, the RC filter after the Hall Sensor (R42/C38 for LT, R39/C36 for RT) or an MCU lead.

For any unfamiliar with my button naming scheme..

A = A Button
B = B Button
X = X Button
Y = Y Button
DU = D-pad Up
DD = D-pad Down
DL = D-pad Left
DR = D-pad Right
LB = Left Bumper
RB = Right Bumper
LT = Left Trigger
RT = Right Trigger
LSC = Left Stick Click, Left Stick's button
RSC = Right Stick Click, Right Stick's button
VW = View (Back)
GU = Guide
MN = Menu (Start)
SY = Sync

FUNCTION - TRACE COLOR

DR - Red w/Black
DU - Yellow w/Black
DD - Green w/Black
DL - Blue w/Black
SY - Dark Purple
LB - Pink
RB - Purple
GU - White w/Green
A - Green
B - Red
X - Blue
Y - Yellow
VW - Light Blue
MN - Medium Blue
LSC - Pink w/White
RSC - Purple w/White
LT - Light Blue w/Light Red
RT - Light Red w/Light Blue

J1/J5 Connector Pinout

1 - RUMBLE MOTOR+
2 - DR
3 - DU
4 - DD
5 - DL
6 - SY
7 - LED IR x 2
8 - 5v USB
9 - LB
10 - D+ USB
11 - POWER OK / SHUTDOWN
12 - D- USB
13 - GROUND
14 - GROUND

J2/J6 Connector Pinout NOTE: "Wired" from here on means connected with the microUSB cable.

1 - V+ (3v Wired), (Battery Voltage Wireless)
2 - LED (under GU, does not drive LED directly)
3 - GROUND
4 - 3.3v
5 - RB
6 - GU (thru D27) Only Guide will work if J2/J6 pin 6 is used for new/alternate Guide button. Use Cathode side of D27 on Power/Button board or controller will not power on when it's pressed.
7 - USB Cable LED
8 - A
9 - X
10 - Y
11 - VW
12 - MN
13 - PNC DETECTION
14 - GROUND

TEST POINTS NOTE: If it doesn't say power source, don't use it to power something.

TP1 - D- USB
TP2 - D+ USB
TP3 - 3.3v (Wired),
TP4 - 0v (Wired),
TP5 - 5v USB
TP6 - 3.3v (Wired),
TP7 - 3.5v, RUMBLE MOTOR+ (switched power source)
TP8 - 3.3v (Wired),
TP9 - 3.3v (switched power source on battery, constant when Wired)
TP10 - 3.3v (Wired),
TP11 - V+ (3v Wired), (Battery Voltage Wireless)
TP12 - 0v (Wired),
TP13 - 0v (Wired),
TP14 - PNC DETECTION
TP15 - 0v (Wired),
TP16 - GUIDE (2.6v not pressed, 0.5v pressed)
TP17 - 3.3v (Wired),
TP18 - USB 5v DETECT (2.95v)
TP19 - 0v (Wired),
TP20 - 0v (Wired),
TP21 - GROUND
TP22 - GROUND
TP23 - 0v (Wired)
TP24 - GROUND
TP25 - 3.3v (Wired),
TP26 - GROUND
TP27 - LT MOTOR+
TP28 - HEAVY MOTOR+
TP29 - RT MOTOR+
TP30 - LIGHT MOTOR+
TP31 - 0v (Wired),
TP32 - 0v (Wired),
TP33 - 0v (Wired),
TP34 - 0v (Wired),
TP35 - 0v (Wired),

My Schematic* of the Button/Power Board - http://www.acidmods.com/RDC/XB1/Schematics/XB1%201537%20TOP%20BOARD.pdf

My Schematic** of the MCU Board - http://www.acidmods.com/RDC/XB1/Schematics/XB1%201537%20BOTTOM%20BOARD.pdf

* Information will be updated when/if I get them scoped and/or figured out.
** Some of the MCU pinouts are guesses for now, I'd need to put the Logic Analyzer on them to see exactly what they are doing.

STICKS - The Sticks are the same 10k POT style as previous controllers, but are new and smaller than the 360 versions. They have a 1.8v AN+ that comes from a Regulator (U8) and it's also the vRef for U1 on the MCU board.

TRIGGERS - The Triggers use Linear Hall Sensors now, U10 (RT) and U11 (LT). They have 3 pins, 1 - VDD (power), 2 - Output, 3 - VSS (ground). The VDD for them comes from U9, which is turned on/off by U1 at 125Hz, 8ms period, On ~1.4ms, Off ~6.6ms (~18% Duty Cycle). This is done mainly to save power, but it also makes them a little harder to tinker with, but not impossible. (more later)

POWER - The Power/Button board has 3 separate Buck/Boost circuits for power management.

U1 is for when the USB cable is attached, it takes the 5v and knocks it down to ~3v for the other two circuits.
U2 is for a 3.5v source that powers the LED, IR LEDs and the Rumble motors. It's TP7 on the MCU board.
U3 is for the 3.3v source that powers pretty much everything on the MCU board. It's TP9 on the MCU board.

(more on the PnC pack/cable when I have them to tear down)

Clean PCB Scans.

BUTTON/POWER BOARD TOP CLEAN

BUTTON/POWER BOARD BOTTOM CLEAN

MCU BOARD TOP CLEAN

MCU BOARD BOTTOM CLEAN

PLAY & CHARGE PACK

The PnC battery pack this time around is a 3v Lipo, 1400mAH, 4.2Wh. The actual cell is 3.7v and 2.33Wh, so where does the 4.2Wh come from..?

..from the other 2.33Wh cell in there that is in parallel with the first one.

The PnC pack uses the same contacts as the AA batteries for sending power to the controller. The 4 pin connector is for 5v and I2C communication between the charging circuit and the MCU in the controller.